Tuesday, April 19, 2011

1930's-1940's Cigarette Pocket Work Shirt, v.1, black & white chambray

Materials: 100% cotton black and white chambray, vintage selvedge chambray hem gussets, vintage Arrow Brand black cotton thread, olive green bartacks, vintage black enameled metal buttons including a Big Yank brand metal button on the cigarette pocket flap.

So, version 1 turned out pretty well, but as usual for a new design it needs a little tweaking. I tried a few different things this time as well, and I'm happy with most of it. The front band is a part of the shirt front, not a separate piece - it's created by doing some interesting folding. Also, there aren't any pleats on the back or where the sleeve meets the cuff. Those elements came out well and because of the shallowness of the armhole curve there's enough extra room so that one's arm movement isn't restricted. I think I figured out how to do the hem gusset as well, this one's kind of sloppy - the next one will be the one.

For the next version I'll need to increase the waist dimensions, it's a little too snug. Maybe add a little more curve to the collar shape too. Otherwise just some minor adjustments. Then I'll just need to figure out how to get a hold of some of that Cone Mills selvedge chambray, the kind still made in the USA, on the old vintage looms, the good stuff...


  1. I googled "Cone Mills selvedge chambray" to start a little research for you. Your blog is at the top of the list, not a great sign.

  2. or, a great sign because people who are into Cone Mills selvedge chambray will come directly to your sight and enjoy it.